1. Speedometer Repair Near Me

TigersUnited.com. Repairing Jaeger and Smiths Speedometers An Article by Copyright 2000 Page 2 Introduction: Anthony (Tony) Rhodes has written a comprehensive article on the various models of the Jaeger and Smiths Speedometers, as used by many British cars, including (with some differences) the Sunbeam Tiger. Tony has graciously consented to allow his article to be reproduced on this web site, and we are grateful. You can Visit Tony's personal Home Page at If you would like to read, or download/save, an Adobe PDF version of this article, it can be done at Click HERE To Download a free copy of Adobe's Acrobat Reader Editor This manual covers mechanical Jaeger/Smiths speedometers from the early 1960's through (at least) the late 1970's.

I have worked mostly with Triumph parts, but also MG as well. I found that they have essentially the same works inside their different size cases. Therefore, servicing these two types uses similar procedures. After reading this, PLEASE give me some feedback. I want this manual to be as explicit and accurate as possible. Your comments, both good and critical, will be very useful for my attempts to refine this monograph. If you find that your speedometer differs from my description, please let me know what you found, and the speedometer serial number and the make/year of your car.

I want to hear everything! Please email me at ARhodes@compuserve.com. THE MALFUNCTIONING SPEEDOMETER Non-speedometer Issues You have almost nothing to fear except fear itself. You CAN fix your own speedometer.

Here is some information that may help you. The first issue is to decide whether the speedometer itself is actually the cause of the problem. Some faults that are thought to be due to a malfunctioning speedometer are actually due to a problem with the cable running to the speedometer, or with the drive gear in the transmission.

Frequently the cable itself is the cause of a wavering speedometer pointer. It is unfortunately somewhat difficult to service the cable. You must be prepared to get under the car and remove the cable from the transmission. However, it is sometimes possible to service the cable simply from the speedometer end. You need to remove the speedometer, then pull up some slack in the cable so the end of the cable is protruding slightly from the dash. Then you may pull out the wire cable from the outer sheath.

Lubricate the cable with white lithium grease or gear oil and then slide the cable back into the sheath. As you get to the last couple of inches you need to slowly spin the cable as you insert it. This will allow the square end of the cable to seat in the square orifice in the transmission drive gear (hopefully).

If, after multiple attempts, you can not get the cable to seat, then you will have to get under the car, and unscrew the cable from the transmission. Then press the cable fully in the sheath, and attach the speedometer. Then, back under the car, you must gently seat the cable into the drive on the transmission and screw it down securely. Test the speedometer with the newly lubricated cable. Test this before fully re-installing the speedometer in the dash. Other causes of a wavering speedometer needle lie inside the speedometer itself. I have seen binding of the input shaft cause wavering as it slows down, then breaks free and turns faster briefly.

Binding can also occur between eh shaft and the retaining flange. I have also seen binding in the odometer wheels (particularly the 'old' style) cause cyclic resistance against turning, resulting in wavering. There can also be a dirt or lack of lubrication in the needle bushing between the magnet wheel and the pointer spindle.

Binding odometer wheels and needle bearings often will casue speedometer wavering that is proportional to road speed. Speedometer Issues A speedometer is a simple device. It has three separate functions.

The speedometer function is to indicate your speed. There are two odometers which are variations on the same theme.

The main odometer shows the cumulative mileage of the car, and the trip odometer measures the mileage since the last reset. The trip odometer is just the same as the main odometer except that it displays 1/10's of miles and is able to be reset. The main odometer has a 1/10 wheel, but it has no lettering and is not shown in the window. + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Anyone who would like to contribute to this effort should contact us at. Volunteers wishing to join our team are welcome.

Take a look at our This site has been designed to pool the collective resources of the many great regional and national Sunbeam Tiger clubs. Membership to the these clubs is strongly recommended. Use our to find the organization nearest you and get involved.

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Hello, I am tired of watching my speedometer gauge bounce. I currently rely more on my tachometer to let me know the correct speed (I used my wife's GPS to calibrate it.) I ended up using parts from two speedometers to get this to work as good as it does.

I replaced the speedo cable and that is still not helping the problem. Can someone recommend a repair place they were happy with?

Speedometer Repair Near Me

What is a reasonable price to get this thing repaired? I don't know if it makes a difference, but the gauge itself lookss next to new. Also, can someone tell me if switching tire size effects speedometer readings? Thanks, Kevin.

Please do not send the unit to a hair salon. If you're feeling crafty & bold, it is pretty easy to take that unit apart and perform basic service yourself. The instructions are here: A bouncing needle is usally (but not always) the cable's fault. One exception (if you have satisfied yourself that it is not the cable) is some dirt or oil or such causing slight interference between the drag cup and the spinning magnet.

I mention this because the services suggested (though very good by most accounts) are far from cheap and if (as you say) the unit looks next to new it may not need the full treatment they do. Sent my tachometer to MO MA mfg. In Alburquerque, both on recommendation and proximity. They did an excellent job and the turn around was remarkably fast, even considering that they're in my state.

Will try again to get the web address, the one I first posted was a hair salon. Still no luck on a web site, but they do have an e-mail address. There are other posts here that have more information as well as recommendations. I sent my speedo and tach to MOMA and they did an excellent job on both.

Turn around was quick too. Thanks for the suggestions. I saw all of the shops mentioned, but I have always done better to go by personal recommendations from this site. Thanks for narrowing down my choices.

You weren't kidding on BPNW, Don. I ordered something and had it on my doorstep in less than 24 hours using regualar UPS! I know what you mean about the cable. I have installed a number of speedo cables in American cars with no problem, but I have had a heck of a time putting them in a TR6.

I ruined the end on the first one I installed also. PWAR, you mentioned that you rebuilt yours for $30. Where did you purchase the kit? Is this something a novice can do? Will it correct the bouncing needle?

I have visited the sites you have all suggested. The price is comparable to some to the NOS I see for sale. I read that the magnetism can deteriorate over time in TR6 speedometers - is this correct? Would buying a NOS make sense if it was the same as the cost to get it repaired?

I think I am going to order one more cable and see if it makes a difference. I am not sure I trust the installer (me), but it is worth one more shot. I checked the pinion gear, so I know it is the cable or speedometer. Any more thoughts on this matter? From the instrument end pull the inner cable out and coat it liberally with good wheel bearing grease (I use a 'red' Selig product but any good bearing lube should work). Reinsert it and try it out. I think you may be experiencing 'whip' in the inner cable.

Another thing is: attach the cable sheath to the chassis anyplace it has a lot of opportunity to flop about. Try tie-wraps and lash it to hard lines or other mounted stuff along its routing. Make sure there are no hard 'kinks'. Nice gentle radii at all places where it bends.